Ethiopia’s Simien Mountains & Ancient Churches

Day 1 – Addis Ababa

Selam, Addis Ababa! Sprawling Addis Ababa welcomes you to Ethiopia, your first step into a country where you’ll be wowed by both the present and the past. First up: a smiling face welcomes you at the airport and takes you to your hotel. Once the whole Camino Women crew is here , you’ll chat with Dr Meskerem Lechisa – there’s not much she doesn’t know about Ethiopia’s history and culture, so this is your opportunity to pick her brain about what to expect.

As you get your first taste of Ethiopian food – sure to be a hit – she’ll help you get a glimpse into this complex capital, its hinterland and the countryside beyond.

Accommodation: Ramada by Wyndham Addis or similar, Addis Ababa
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 2 – Addis Ababa

Breathe in the familiar scent of gum trees as you begin your Ethiopian adventure with a guided walk in gorgeous Entoto Park. Locals refer to this place as “the lungs of Addis Ababa”. Up here, the air is fresh and cool. With the city laid out beneath you, Maya Lookout’s stop-and-stare bamboo sculptures ahead and a mountain riddled with forest trails, it’s not hard to see why this is a local bolthole.

After you’ve stretched your legs, you step into Sabahar, a shop that specialises in handmade cotton and silk textiles. Chat to weavers, spinners, dyers and finishers as they work their magic, transforming threads into beautiful throws, scarves, totes and more. Just be careful you don’t blow your entire holiday budget in one go. The craft magic continues with a twist at Ensera Clay Centre where you’ll not only see techniques passed down for generations but also learn how the provision of a crèche has proved a game changer for working mothers.

Accommodation: Ramada by Wyndham Addis or similar, Addis Ababa
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 3 – Gondar

Bye, Addis! Hop on a flight to the fortress city of Gondar, once the country’s capital and even now dotted with fairytale turrets, towers and parapets. It won’t take you long to understand why it deserves its nickname – the Camelot of Africa – as you amble around the Royal Enclosure, Fasil Ghebbi, before exploring the town’s Jewish village. 

It’s only Day 3, and you’ve already learned from the locals how to make injera the traditional way. This soft flatbread pairs perfectly with spicy wot, the country’s signature stew. And wot should you wash it down with? Coffee, of course. As the aroma of incense and roasted beans tickles your nostrils, you’ll hear a story involving goats on a caffeine-induced high. Whether you buy into the fable or not, you’re bound to feel a new connection to your hosts by taking part in a coffee ceremony – which is as much about storytelling and socialising as it is drinking the beverage itself.

Accommodation: Gondar Hills Resort or similar, Gondar
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 4 – The Simien Mountains

Today the focus shifts as you home in on the Simien Mountains National Park, via the Felasha Jewish village of Wolleka and the mind-stretching Kossoye viewpoint. Now it’s time to lace up your boots for your first stretch of what Camino Women are all about: a three-hour hike from Chennek to the camp at Sankaber.

Even though this is merely the warm-up for the main event – and an all-important chance to acclimatise to the altitude – it’s pretty special. Keep your eyes peeled for gelada baboons – these high altitude grass-munchers are the primates you’ll most often see along the trail. Once you do, this is the question you won’t be able to get out of your head – if they eat grass and herbs, why do they need such fearsome-looking teeth?

Accommodation: Wild camping at Sankaber
Included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 5 – Trekking from Sankaber to Geech 

Prepare to be wowed! If you thought the scenery was amazing yesterday, today it ramps up to truly spectacular. Set your sights on Geech – a 15-kilometre, six-hour walk away. The time will fly by, but watch where you place your feet – the route’s a tangle of rocky paths, craggy ridges and steep drop-offs. It’s probably best to stand still when you look at those show-stopping views.

When the 530–metre-high Genbar Falls makes an appearance, plunging over the escarpment, you’ll have to remind yourself to breathe. Birds of prey soar overhead on the thermals. Your local guide will point out lammergeiers (bearded vultures) and augur buzzards. Those gelada baboons might show up again, and if you’re really lucky, you’ll encounter small antelopes such as klipspringer and bushbuck, maybe even an elusive Walia ibex.

An open, grassy plateau heralds your arrival at Geech and the promise of a good feed and some restorative sleep. You’ve earned it!

Accommodation: Wild Camping at Geech
Included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 6 – Trekking from Geech to Chennek

Brace yourself! Trekking all day at this altitude, even on largely flat trails like today’s, is no walk in the park. Up here the air is thin and in exposed stretches it feels like the wind’s hell-bent on snatching back what little oxygen you’ve managed to grasp. 

But the reward for pushing yourself through the extremes shows up at every step around you. The mountains and ridges seem to stretch into infinity. In this beautiful wilderness, trees are sparse. Instead, you’ll be surrounded by grasses, shrubs and the show-offs of the Ethiopian countryside, giant lobelias. You feel the presence of wildlife, and maybe you’ll even spot an Abyssinian wolf. If you can make it to the Imet Gogo viewpoint, a striking panorama unfolds before you – it is optional, but boy will you be happy you did it!

Tonight’s camp, at Chennek, is no less inspiring., Hang onto that view until the inky blackness steals it away. 

Accommodation: Camping at Chennek
Included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 7 – Trekking from Chennek to Ambiko

Today’s a Billy Ocean kind of day – when the going gets tough, the tough get going! You and your new group of hiker friends will set out for Ambiko. Keep one eye on the scenery and the other on your feet, so you don’t stumble over the uneven ground as you navigate lofty ridges, gaze out over vertigo-inducing escarpments and a patchwork of fields carpeting fertile slopes above distant valley floors.

As you first climb to the Bahwit Pass and then descend to the Mesheha River, scan the cliff face for Walia ibex and perhaps a lone wolf. Mountain peaks like Bahwit and Ras Dashen add scale and drama, ever-present landmarks as you inch closer to Ambiko with a final uphill slog to a most welcome feed. Turn in as the campfire flames subside into glowing embers – tomorrow’s a big day.

Accommodation: Wild Camping at Ambiko
Included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 8 – Climbing Ras Dashen

Ras Dashen is Ethiopia’s highest mountain so if you’re to make it to the top – 4550 metres up – you’ll need to be in good shape. But that’s it: no technical experience needed, just grit and determination (you’re a Camino Woman, so you have an abundance of those!).

The gradual climb from Ambiko is deceptive as things ramp up later on. The oxygen’s conspicuously absent up here, though, so follow your guide’s advice, breathe deeply and take it steady. By the time you scramble up the rocky scree on that final push to the summit, you’ll have earned this killer view, so pats on the back all round. Now all you’ve got to do is get down again! Let’s hope some of that Simien wildlife makes an appearance to create a distraction – and an excuse to bring out your camera and have a rest.

Accommodation: Wild Camping at Ambiko
Included: Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Day 9 – Return to Gondar

Transport to Gondar’s arranged, but it’s at Chennek – good thing is, getting there is such a lovely walk. Before you know it, you’ll be rolling into town. If the group’s up for it, you might get to visit the kolo temari (students of kolo). Ethiopian Orthodox priests take these young boys under their wing and under their supervision, the kids learn how to memorise scripture, study liturgical texts and analyse religious poetry.

What’s next? Well-earned downtime and dinner – both will re-energise you for another big day of wonders.

Accommodation: Gondar Hills or similar, Gondar
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 10 – Lalibela Churches

King Lalibela’s Jerusalem v2.0? Africa’s Petra? Whatever comparisons you draw, remember this: constructing 11 places of worship would be an extraordinary undertaking with modern technology, but these date back to the 12th and 13th century.. Oh, and Lalibela didn’t build them above ground – he carved them underground, straight out of the rock. Six of them sit one behind the other in rock cradles.

Bet Medhane Alem deserves a special mention: it contains three empty graves dedicated to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob and also houses the Lalibela cross which pilgrims believe has healing properties. Another cluster of four sits across the River Jordan. Today you’ll explore them all, but don’t worry about getting churched-out: each has its own unique characteristics, from iron shackles to old bones.

Accommodation: Mezena Resort and Spa or similar, Lalibela
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 11 – Lalibela Surroundings

There’s a monastery not far from Lalibela that you won’t skip – at least not at your local guide’s watch! A beautiful trail winds up towards Asheton St Maryam monastery, snaking through some of the surrounding villages. At the monastery, a priest will show you a fabulous illustrated Bible and centuries-old crosses – can we get a “Wow!” for their elaborate latticework?

And remember those two clusters of churches back in Lalibela? Let’s duck back to visit one more. Elegant Bet Giyorgis stands on its own, accessed via a narrow canyon and then a tunnel. Legend has it that the hoof-prints of the white stallion that St George rode on the day the church was completed are imprinted in nearby rocks.

Accommodation: Mezena Resort and Spa or similar, Lalibela
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 12 – Addis Ababa

It’s time to wrap things up by returning to Addis Ababa. But there’s plenty to look forward to and a VIP to meet. You’ll find her – Lucy – at the National Archaeological Museum and at 3.5 million years old, she’s probably the ancestor of every human in the room with you. Swing by Merkato, the largest open market in Africa, for last-minute keepsakes before treating yourself to some pampering, Addis-style. Sniff out the scent of wood smoke to experience Weyba Tis, where you’ll be slathered in butter and honey and then lightly baked under a cloak. Instead of ending up like a crispy roast chicken, though, you’ll emerge with the skin of someone ten years younger. At least that’s what they say, but it’s got to be worth a try! You’ll still be glowing as you feast on Ethiopian cuisine and enjoy the traditional dancing at tonight’s colourful farewell dinner. Raise a glass of Tej – honey wine – and toast to hospitality and happiness.

Accommodation: Ramada by Wyndham Addis or similar, Addis Ababa
Included: Breakfast and Dinner

Day 13 – Departure day

Is it departure day already? How time flies when you’ve had so much fun! We think you’ll come back home with one, two, maybe even thirteen new hiking friends. Don’t forget to grab their contact information before a final hug goodbye. Then, settle back in your seat, close your eyes and dream of a new Camino Women adventure – where will it take you next?

Included: Breakfast